Samtskhe-Javakheti beauty in spring

 In May I went back twice to Samtskhe-Javakheti, my favorite region of Georgia !

Borjomi, Bakuriani, Vardzia, Akhaltskhe, Akhalaki I really need to tell you about this amazing region! 

I already went to Borjomi in December. The whole city was under a good layer of snow, which gave it the feel of a nice vacation village. I spent some time in this town, very close to Bakuriani, to enjoy the ski resort at the start of the season. It seemed like a nice place, but I didn't really take the time to explore it. I just remember slipping on the ice, somewhere between a fit of laughter and a fall.

A nice memory, but I was super happy to go back again and see this city with my flatmates.

Borjomi is the georgian city of water, it’s known for its mineral sparkling water -don’t ask me if it is good I don’t like sparkling water. It is a pretty town located on the banks of the Kura River also known for its thermal baths.

In short, it’s the “water capital” of Georgia. Speaking of water, it’s ironic because there wasn’t any in our location and then it rained all day the next day. So first no water, then too much water.

But don’t get me wrong—it was still a wonderful stay, and I got to explore this beautiful city even more.

Earlier in the trip, with the other volunteers, we stayed at a guesthouse in Akhaltsikhe—where I returned a week later. It’s a charming house with a little puppy and a view of the city! It’s also a perfect starting point to go to Vardzia.

I finally took time to explore Akhaltsikhe -after three visits. The town is dominated by a beautiful castle (New castle, from which the city takes its name). From up there you can see the entire town and the surrounding mountains. It’s beautiful! 

But let's move to the interesting part: Tamar’s city, Vardzia and its surrounding. I advise anyone that could, to go there, especially history and hiking lovers. Once you pass Aspinza, no matter where you look, everything is magical! Between the dense forests that darken the mountainsides, the ancient stones that bear witness to a bygone era, the cave monasteries, and the ruined castles, the Samtskhe region feels as though it has been plucked straight out of The Lord of the Rings.

Two weeks after visiting Vardzia with the other volunteers (for the second time) and being captivated by its history (for the second time), I went back for a hike in the area. I wanted to breathe in the mountain air, explore Tmogovi Castle, and spend some time alone. 

The first day was beautiful and sunny. I left Akhaltsikhe early in the morning, hitchhiking to Aspinza, where I ate an excellent homemade soup, packed a khachapuri, and crossed one of those little suspension bridges that span the Mtkvari River every few kilometers. 

Impressive mountains, fields of poppies, caves carved into the cliffs. 

First setback: I broke my phone charger and the battery died. An old man advised me to cross the river again, get back to the road, and try to find a store. Unfortunately—or perhaps fortunately in the end—neither of the last two remaining grocery stores sold a Lightning cable. Instead of going back to Aspinza, I decided to hitchhike to Vardzia  and try to find a solution to my problem. 

And in fact, as soon as I walk into one of those cute tourist restaurants overlooking the town, I’m warmly welcomed, offered some tea, and they charged my phone. 

I stay here for hours; outside, the wind has picked up, and the rain begins to fall lightly. The lady who welcomed me was amazing! We chatted for a good hour. Since it was raining, there were few customers; people had gone home, and the sun, already darkened by the clouds, began to set behind the mountain. 

As night fell, the lady offered to let me pitch my tent in the restaurant’s courtyard. It’s a magnificent garden with a fountain in the center and dotted with small tables in the shade of tall willows. Three large pergolas extend over the banks of the Mtkvari, allowing you to admire Vardzia while sheltered from the rain. 

And the cherry on top: in the backyard there is a natural pool fed by a sulfur spring. A large, warm pool allows you to swim a few laps, and a small hot tub lets you relax facing the centuries-old city, which is also softly lit at night, giving it a magical appearance.

So I spent the rest of the evening under the pergola with a good book and a blanket, said goodbye to the staff heading home after their shift, and took a midnight swim facing the impressive cave city. The life of a king.

This city witnessed the reign of George III in the 12th century, as well as that of his daughter, the famous King Tamar, who had a hidden church built there, the Church of the Dormition. It survived the Mongol invasions but fell to the Persians. It also served as a monastery. It is an architectural gem, with an unparalleled running water system, hundreds of meters of secret corridors, a spring in the rock, chapels, pharmacies, and legends behind every stone.

I woke up in the morning, facing Vardzia, said goodbye one last time, and set off in the opposite direction toward Aspinza. This second day was rainy, but I managed to reach the castle I wanted to see, after stopping at a carved cave where an icon shone behind the reflections of passersby’s prayers. I walked through the small villages, past herds of cows and horses, and crossed the river one last time. Then I hitchhiked back to the bus station. And I returned to Tbilisi with lots of beautiful memories, and a feeling of peace.